Supple Automotive

• Brakes (visual & basic function) — Pads, rotors, calipers, and lines as far as we can see without teardown; pedal feel; parking brake when applicable. We call out wear, leaks, and anything that looks unsafe or near end of life.
• Suspension & steering — Shocks, struts, springs, bushings, ball joints, and tie rods checked for obvious play, damage, or leaks. Noises and uneven tire wear get tied back to likely causes.
• Safety walk-around — Exterior lights, horn, wipers, glass, mirrors, tires (tread depth and pressure), and seat belts—everything you rely on every day.
• OBD-II scan & “history” clues — Current and pending fault codes, freeze-frame data when stored, and readiness monitors (tells us if the computer was recently reset before a sale). We explain what each code means in plain language—not just a scary list.
• Under the hood — Fluids (level and condition), belts, hoses, battery terminals, and obvious leaks or past repairs worth asking about.
• Under the car (as accessible) — Signs of leaks, damage, or rust in typical wear areas; exhaust obvious issues.

• Verbal walkthrough — Ask anything while we’re at the car; we prioritize the biggest safety and cost items first.
• Prioritized summary — “Fix before you drive,” “plan for soon,” and “keep an eye on it”—so you’re not guessing what matters.
• Better questions for the seller — Service history gaps, recent repairs, and code resets to ask about before you sign.
• Road test when allowed — If the seller/insurance permits and conditions are safe, a short drive can reveal noises, pulls, and drivetrain behavior that a static check can’t. Not always possible; we’ll tell you when it isn’t.

This is a professional mechanical assessment for buyers—not a state smog certificate, DMV brake/light inspection, or dealer “certified” program unless we offer those separately.